6 – 7 Days Mount Kenya: Batian Northface Technical Climbing (June-October)

Early morning after breakfast you have an acclimatization walk to Point Lenana (4895m). Rest after lunch and at 3pm, climb a short route on either Point Peter (this is also technical) or Point Dutton. You can also opt to rest and spare the energy. In either case, you also prepare for the climb of Batian the following morning.

Starting before dawn, usually between 4 and 5 am, take a 40 minute walk to the climbing base. To ascend Batian by the North Face Standard Route, you may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. The route initially follows a wide contour which you ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings you to the amphitheater, a small basin of easy rock part way up the route. Ideally you arrive here by about 7.30am and enjoy a late breakfast and a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin’s Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and finally, the west ridge.
From this point, you continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian. Descent is by the same route, with a few minor variations. If you are quick, you can arrive back in Shipton’s Camp before evening dusk. If it’s slow, you might not be able to go up and down the same day. Hence, you may stay overnight at the Top Hut about 5,188m (Nelion).

Please plan for an Extra day in case you spend the night at the Top Hut.

After spending the night at Shipton’s you will use the Chogoria route, because we believe it is the most scenic. The trek begins with a climb up to Simba Col (where porters once swore they saw a lion, hence the name) then a quick descent to the Hall Tarns. From here you follow the backbone of a ridge, overlooking the beautiful Gorges Valley. Losing elevation, you leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt which surrounds Mt. Kenya. As you approach the rustic cabins of Meru Mount Kenya Lodge (your destination for the night), you are likely to see cape buffalo, as well as bush buck or water buck, and tracks of other wild animals. The Bandas, as the cabins are called, are a welcome luxury after your stay on the mountain. With hot showers (after the water is wood-fire heated) and a fine evening fire, you enjoy dinner and the thick, fragrant air of the jungly lower elevations. In the evening, you can make a short hike with your guide, looking for additional wildlife and exploring the immediate area around our cabins.

There is a rough road which leads up to the lodge. You may choose to hike the first hour or so, enjoying the thick bamboo forest. You often see elephant tracks and signs of many other wild animals. After a bit of time, a 4×4 off road vehicle catches up with you. You use the vehicle to drive to Chogoria town on the east side of Mt. Kenya. Once on the main road, you switch to a more comfortable vehicle, for an additional 4 hour drive to Nairobi. Back to a Nairobi hotel, you enjoy the comforts of civilization and a fine dinner or get transferred to the airport for a flight out.